I’ve been in Jersey for less than an hour when I meet the first of many of its local celebrities. This was the set of one of the biggest TV shows of the 1980s, after all.
The largest of the Channel Islands, just a 40-minute flight from London, was always a popular holiday destination for UK travellers. But it wasn’t until Bergerac hit screens more than 30 years ago that visitor numbers really started to soar.
The enthusiasm for the John Nettles detective drama endured long after filming wrapped, but residents say tourism has dwindled over the past decade; I’m told the island’s biggest income driver is now the finance industry.
But a reboot of the BBC classic, which premiered this week, has sparked hopes of a return to halcyon days.
Bergerac and Jersey: a special connection
The six-part series, which airs on U&Drama, stars Damien Molony as the titular Jim Bergerac, a detective thrown into a high-stakes investigation.
Years after the original ended, fans still call Bergerac ‘timeless’ and ‘one of the best crime shows in UK history’.
Reviews for the reboot have been mixed. The Telegraph called it ‘competent’ while Radio Times said it’s a ‘solid cosy crime’ that doesn’t stack up to its forebear.
But others called the series ‘fantastic’ and said they loved seeing Jersey on screen again.
The hospitality on the island makes for a warm atmosphere. Many older residents are keen to chat about the impact the original series had.
Over the decade that the original series filmed on the island, dozens of locals took part, including my taxi driver, Gary. Years ago on a whim, he moved to Jersey without ever being there before.
While working as a barman, Gary was asked to make an appearance in the show, serving drinks to Bergerac and his father-in-law Charlie Hungerford (Terence Alexander). Although it wasn’t a speaking role, he relished the chance to play a part in the series, which attracted 15 million viewers a week in its heyday.
It’s a story I hear several times over; people here are clearly proud of the show’s legacy.
Gabby Mason, co-owner of Driftwood Café and Jade S-Fisheries, was raised on the island because of the series – her parents relocated from the United Kingdom after being entranced by the place they saw on screen.
This time around the production team again turned to locals to bolster the cast. Around 300 Jersey residents appear in the reimagined series.
Things to do in Jersey
Filmed on the island in the summer of 2024, the show features spectacular scenery and landmarks including La Rocco, a beachside tower at the expansive St Ouen’s Bay, a favourite among surfers who rush to take advantage of the Atlantic swell on the west side of the island.
Embroidered along the shore are cafes and restaurants serving up fresh seafood, including Le Braye Bistro, which offers quintessential British seaside fare with a Mediterranean twist (the prawn tacos are a standout).
Food is big business in Jersey; more than 500 restaurants are spread across the nine-by-five-mile territory that has a population of 100,000.
Unsurprisingly the seafood is a highlight, with menus overflowing with everything from prawns and sea bream to scallops and crab.
With a large Madeiran community, Jersey also has a wealth of Portuguese cafes and restaurants run by the people who know the cuisine best.
The passion for local produce is evident everywhere, and everyone tells me not to leave without trying the island’s famous royal potatoes, butter and ice cream.
Culinary highlights include Brassiere Colmar, Sangria Tapas and Restaurant and The Moorings, which has an oyster happy hour that regularly attracted Bergerac stars during days off filming.
Around 70% of the island’s tourists come from the UK. These are people looking for a ‘little slice of the UK with a French twist’, I’m told.
Over the years many have come to the island to find the locations they saw on Bergerac.
Among the most quaint is Bouley Bay, a picturesque swimming spot popular with snorkellers and scuba divers, Archirondel and St. Brelade’s Bay, where market stalls are dotted along the promenade.
In summer the beach is packed with families soaking up the sunshine, but in the cooler months locals enjoy sunset walks while the area is quiet.
A dark history
Today, Jersey is all saccharine scenery and chocolate box villages. But its beauty belies a dark past.
Following the witch hunts of the 16th and 17th-century, the Channel Islands got the dubious title of Europe’s‘witch-hunting capital’. Some 65 islanders were put on trial, and 33 of them were executed between 1560 and 1660.
Superstitious islanders erected ‘witches’ stones’ – flat stones jutting out of their chimneys – on their homes. They believed they were providing flying witches a place to rest, in the hopes of avoiding their wrath.
Another reminder of Jersey’s troubled history are the War Tunnels built during the five-year Nazi occupation from 1940 until liberation in 1945, an event still celebrated with an annual bank holiday.
Under Hitler’s orders, around 1,000 metres of tunnels were built across the island by 6,000 forced workers from Russia, Spain, France and Poland.
The vast network was created to allow the occupying German forces to withstand Allied air raids and bombardment in the event of an invasion, and many bunkers and tunnels are still intact today.
Jersey also lays claim to one of the 10 oldest buildings in the world, La Hougue Bie, a Neolithic passage grave where visitors can stand inside the chamber of the sacred space.
Although Jersey has historically been seen as a holiday destination for older people, there’s plenty to see and do that will keep visitors of all ages engaged, from Mount Orgueil Castle and Elizabeth Castle to the Jersey Zoo.
The magic of Jersey
Although Irish-born Bergerac star Damien Molony only watched the original after being cast, he quickly fell in love with the island the show has always called home.
Speaking to Metro ahead of the premiere, Damien Molony said locals approached him during filming to share their excitement about the reboot, as well as their memories of the original.
‘I think so many people from Jersey have either played a supporting part in the original series or had come across John Nettles at some point. I mean, the number of times I got into the back of a cab and the driver would say, “let me tell you about the time I had John Nettles here” and wonderful memories, and I think everyone was just so thrilled to have it back,’ he said.
Damien admitted it was difficult when he told people he was filming a project in Jersey.
‘Jersey equals Bergerac and Bergerac equals Jersey. When I got the job, I wasn’t allowed to tell people what I was doing, but people were asking, “what are you guys doing for the summer holidays?” And I said, “I’m actually going to Jersey to do some work”. And you could see them kind of putting two and two together a lightbulb moment because they’re so synonymous with each other.’
Although he only got one day off during filming, the actor has returned three times since filming wrapped – including with his wife and two young children, who cried when they had to leave.
‘Jersey is obviously incredibly beautiful. It’s as beautiful at 2 degrees as it is at 32 degrees, you know. And I think, particularly in the depths of winter, audiences want to be transported to beautiful locations,’ he said.
Visiting Jersey
How to get to Jersey
Part of the Common Travel Area, visitors can fly or take a ferry to Jersey from the UK or Ireland.
There are over 20 airports that fly to Jersey, including London, Birmingham, Manchester, Newcastle, Edinburgh and Dublin, with most flights taking around an hour or less.
You can also travel by car, bike or foot on ferries from Poole or Portsmouth – with overnight cabin crossing and faster daytime boats available.
Where to stay
There is no shortage of places to stay in Jersey, from budget-friendly accommodation options to luxurious retreats.
Overlooking St. Helier, rooms at Hotel De France start at £144 per night. Over in Gorey, a room at The Moorings is around £145 a night. Meanwhile rooms at St Brelade’s Bay Hotel are around £130/ night.
Things to know
Like many of the UK’s coastal towns and cities, Jersey attracts many visitors in its summer months, where the average temperature sitting around 17 degrees.
In the winter, Jersey’s average temperature is 6 degrees, however the island can face storms, fog and strong winds.
UK citizens also don’t need a visa to enter Jersey but must have a valid passport.
Pierra Willix was a guest of Visit Jersey. Bergerac is now streaming on U and U&Drama.
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