I have joked in the past about the peeled flesh of a baked aubergine and how, when sitting in a sieve balanced over the sink, it looks like a damp, grubby dishcloth. Well, a week or so ago, I lived this joke when I reached for a dishcloth that was, rather oddly, sitting on a plate, and for a nanosecond I thought that things really had reached a low for the cloth to be not just grubby, but slimy. That was before I realised I was about to pick up an aubergine and future baba ganoush.
Other things occurred that evening, too, and in the end the aubergine was put in Tupperware with some peeled cloves of garlic and a squeeze of lemon (which I hoped might preserve it), and the box put in the fridge. It should not be a confession for a food writer whose job is to be resourceful, but I am going to admit it anyway: every time I put sealed Tupperware in the fridge, I wonder if it will get out in time. Quite often, it doesn’t, which also confirms a friend’s observation that putting Tupperware in the fridge is the equivalent of telling someone you will call them back, then forgetting. Happily, this box did come out in time (the very next day, in fact), and the contents – which still looked like a dishcloth, but a welcome one – had almost become baba ganoush.
It was lunchtime, and we had a packet of gnocchi to eat up. That was the reason I heated everything up, mashed the fillets of aubergine with a fork, took out the peeled garlic, minced it and mixed it in with red chilli flakes and a bit more lemon juice, then tossed the lot through cooked gnocchi. We enjoyed the almost velvet-like dishcloth cream so much that I made something similar a few days later, only this time cooking cubed aubergine in a frying pan. I have also roasted it, and I am hoping someone will give me notes about air-frying some, too. However you cook the aubergine, though, remember that the aim is a soft, beige cream, and to add chilli, garlic and lemon to taste, while keeping in mind that it will be mixed with gnocchi (shop-bought or homemade) or pasta (fusilli, mafalde, ridged tubes).
I suggest topping this with grated salted ricotta because it goes so well with aubergine – plus I’m thinking of pasta alla Norma and other Sicilian dishes. That said, parmesan, pecorino, grana padano or a spoonful of ordinary ricotta (in which case, add a bit of lemon zest, too) will work just as well, along with more chilli flakes or a few turns of black pepper.
Gnocchi or pasta with aubergine, red chilli, lemon and salted ricotta
Serves 4
1 large or 2 medium aubergines
4-6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Salt
Dried red chilli flakes
1-2 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
A squeeze of lemon juice
Salted ricotta, or parmesan or pecorino, grated, to serve
400-500g gnocchi or pasta (fusilli, mafalde, ridged tubes)
Use a potato peeler to pare strips off the aubergine, so it looks like a zebra crossing. Cut the aubergine into 2cm chunks, put them in a bowl and toss with olive oil and a good pinch of salt.
You now have two choices. The first is to fry the aubergine cubes in a large frying pan over a medium-low heat, moving them around regularly, until they start softening. Then add a dash of water and cover so they half-fry/half-braise, until very soft. Add a generous pinch of chilli flakes, the garlic, a squeeze of lemon juice and a bit more oil and salt, if you think it needs it. Cook for a minute more, so it is creamy not watery.
The other way is to spread the aubergine cubes on a baking tray and bake at 170C (150C fan)/340F/gas 3½ for 20-30 minutes, turning halfway, until soft and just a little golden (you don’t want them to be crisp). Tip the cubes into a frying pan, mash gently and, as before, add a generous pinch of chilli flakes, the garlic, a squeeze of lemon and a bit more olive oil and salt if you think it needs it. Cook for a minute more, so the mix is creamy and not watery.
Meanwhile, cook the gnocchi or pasta in plenty of fast-boiling salted water until al dente, then drain or lift directly into the aubergine pan. Toss well, then divide between plates and serve topped with grated cheese and more chilli flakes or black pepper.
