Modefabriek: Positivity about new location outweighs concerns about layout

Over the past two days, fashion professionals immersed themselves in new trends, caught a sneak peek of AW25 collections, and drew inspiration from trend forecasters and fashion experts. This all took place at Dutch trade show Modefabriek in Expo Greater Amsterdam in Vijfhuizen. For this edition, the womenswear trade show relocated to a new venue and unveiled a refreshed layout, with the open design of the fair generating curiosity and a positive atmosphere on the first day. How did the second day unfold? FashionUnited reports.

Anyone that was walking from the car park on Monday along the lengthy path was treated to the view of a large glasshouse in the distance. The symbolically coloured Modefabriek flags fluttered in the strong wind, clearly marking the route to the entrance. Visitors are welcomed by a lilac carpet and trend presentations. Just after midday, various groups of cheerful women arrive, but the exhibition floor is already quite busy. The crowd has dispersed throughout the space. Some hurry past with a floor plan in hand, while others jot down notes at a gold-foiled table. It’s clear that Modefabriek is in full swing.

The space resembles a greenhouse; the building has glass walls, and the roof is entirely covered with solar panels. On Monday afternoon, the sun ensures the space is well-lit. As FashionUnited previously illustrated, Modefabriek’s organisers opted for a revamped floor plan: a ‘department store’ layout. Gone are the straight aisles, replaced by a meandering route that playfully guides visitors past the stands. The intention is for the public to discover new brands more spontaneously.

On the first day of Modefabriek, it was clear that stands on the perimeter of the fair were heavily visited. Everyone makes their way around the outer edges, just as they always did at the fair’s former location at the RAI Amsterdam, it was said. This was no different on the final day of the fair. The stand of Dutch label Josh V was filled with visitors throughout the afternoon, and Netherlands-based Beaumont’s burgundy-coloured stand with iconic platforms also attracted a lot of attention.

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Modefabriek as a department store: Accessible and lost in the offerings

In the middle of the ‘department store’, there’s a mixed reaction to the new layout. The playful design is praised by a representative from German label The Shirt Project, for which a representative said: “You notice that visitors step in easily. Their inquisitive attitude, possibly stimulated by this new set-up, is very beneficial for us.” For the representative, Monday felt like the busiest day, with several new clients noted. The Shirt Project showcases a collection featuring light blue, beige, and reddish-orange hues. Similar sentiments are echoed at the stands of Lithuanian brand In Avati and French label Auraeme. Both are exhibiting at Modefabriek for the first time.

At the Poools brand stand, the bright, open space is commended. The Dutch womenswear brand is busy expanding in Northern France and Germany and is looking for agents to represent Poools. “This new Modefabriek creates optimism. Visitors are finding us easily, and we’ve signed new clients. We are satisfied,” the representatives said, while admitting that the new layout also causes some confusion. “People get lost more easily. The exhibition floor gives a fresh impression but also offers less structure.”

The ‘department store’ layout is punctuated by a multi-coloured runner with seven stops. The blue runner welcomes visitors with a table laden with fresh fruit, and visitors can pause at the ‘beauty’ table or the ‘curated resellers’. The yellow area hosts fashion shows, including one by MSCH Copenhagen, presenting their AW25 collection combined with a dice game.

The Yerse brand is located near the table where Olcay Gulsen Beauty and Maniac Nails offer visitors touch-ups. At the stand, it’s mentioned that the knitwear brand is missing out on visitors due to the division created by the aisles. “Visitors make a choice by going left or right and get lost among the stands on the other side of the table. We don’t see those visitors again, and that feels like a missed opportunity.” Yerse is seeking new retailers in the Dutch market.

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Visitors praise new venue and layout for accessibility

As far as retailers are concerned, the new venue and layout are a success. Alijd Wever, owner of Blanche Conceptstore in Deventer, the Netherlands, says she spotted many new, smaller brands. “For example, we discovered a new jewellery brand and immediately placed an order,” Wever noted. The buyers from fashion store Bac in Zevenhuizen particularly appreciate the location, adding: “We can park close by, and the fair feels more accessible and brighter.” They are looking for new brands to complement their current collection and a good denim brand.

Sales staff from Dutch independent Bossenbroek Women are visiting the fair for inspiration. At the end of the day, they will head home with “plenty of photos” of collections to share with their buyers. The sales representatives from the fashion store in Voorthuizen describe the fair as open, accessible, and convivial.

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New layout with familiar elements

The new layout also incorporates some elements from previous editions. The Fashion Gallery has been given a more prominent position in the centre of the exhibition floor, the Trend Forum has been moved to the entrance, and Spotlight is located at the very back of the hall. The Responsible Route, highlighting sustainable labels, is also back.

Spotlight provides young brands with a (first) platform on the exhibition floor. For example, Helmpie displays a range of scooter helmets with a bold leopard print, Via di Gioia presents their swimwear, and Saint Muze brought along their upcycled vintage items.

Even in this section of the fair, there are mixed feelings about the location. It’s Izzie Label’s first time on the exhibition floor. The owner of the upcycling brand, Inez Aline de Jong, creates garments from deadstock, where the shapes of the items always remain the same, but they take on a different appearance through the use of the fabrics. She launched her label in 2020 and is at the fair to generate brand awareness and find her first retail outlet. De Jong is enthusiastic about having a spot at the fair and calls her first edition “successful”. At the stand of Alegra Collective, an agency representing the three slow fashion brands Balkanica, Cannella Brand Shoes, and Unne, Monday is hailed as a busy day.

Floria Collective, which has been featured at Spotlight for several editions, believes the move to the expo location is a good decision. Co-owner of the brand, Fleur Geerinck, points to the solar panels on the roof. “From a sustainability perspective, this is fantastic, of course,” she states. Regarding the layout of the exhibition floor, she shares that the Spotlight section feels somewhat hidden. “We are located right at the back, which makes us feel a bit isolated from the rest. A good alternative would be to swap with the Curated Vintage area. Visitors could then try on clothes in peace, while we could do business in the middle of the exhibition floor.”

The sustainable brand is also part of the Responsible Route, but the co-owner indicates that there has been little interaction with the public about this. The same can be heard at the stand of Denmark’s Sissel Edelbo, a brand that has brought unique silk garments made from old saris. The Responsible Route is signposted at the entrance, and attention is drawn to the sustainable route on the floor plan via a QR code. Participating stands are marked with a green sticker, as in previous editions.

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The January edition of Modefabriek at the new expo location can be considered a highlight in the Dutch trade fair landscape. The greenhouse-like building gives the exhibition floor a bright, open feel. This gives visitors a sense of accessibility. Amongst exhibitors, there’s some division regarding the new layout. Stands on the perimeter of the hall were busy on both days, but for smaller brands in the centre of the space, the ‘department store’ layout sometimes felt disorienting. Familiar elements such as the Trend Forum, Spotlight, and The Fashion Gallery were given new locations within the fair, with some faring better than others. At the end of the second day, visitors headed home feeling satisfied and brimming with inspiration.

For those who like to plan ahead: The summer edition of Modefabriek will take place on 6 and 7 July 2025.