‘Cheap as chips’, ‘a budget alternative to the south of France’, ‘Europe’s most affordable beach holiday’ — these are just some of the ways the Balkans are often described.
Growing up in Bulgaria, I take it personally. This is a region full of culture, spectacular landscapes and architectural wonders that deserves more than to be seen as an inferior alternative to mainstream European destinations.
Proof of Balkan exceptionalism is the Grand Hotel Brioni, a five-star Radisson property in Pula, on the tip of Croatia’s Istrian Peninsula.
The hotel was voted the best in Croatia in 2023, following an extensive £30 million renovation. But it also played a pivotal role in the country’s history.
Hotel Brioni’s star-studded past
It’s not just luxury that attracts me to Brioni. The hotel is synonymous with Croatia’s political past, particularly during the era of Josip Broz Tito, the president of former Yugoslavia from 1945 until his death in 1980.
The de facto dictator – who ruled the territory of six republics with an iron fist – was often seen there, sipping whiskey with his entourage.
Throughout the 1970s, the hotel also played host to Hollywood and music royalty including Sophia Loren, Boney M and Abba, as well as dozens of politicians — even Libyan dictator Colonel Gaddafi.
Today, the Sophia Restaurant is named after Ms Loren.
Adriatic vibes
The hotel unfurls into a sprawling reception filled with natural light, courtesy of floor-to-ceiling windows. A palette of Mediterranean blues and whites flows throughout, with natural materials like stone and marble incorporated into columns and straight-edged coving.
On the roof is a terrace bookended by an infinity pool that captures sweeping views of the Adriatic.
Walking through the spa – which extends over two floors, with an indoor pool and whirlpool, three saunas and six treatment rooms – I’m so swept up by the soothing vibe, I book an Ayurvedic massage.
In keeping with the communal spaces, soft, neutral tones colour the 227 rooms. Spaces are uncluttered, with king-sized beds and luxury touches like bathrobes doing the talking.
A notable perk is the choice of seven different pillows to suit guests’ preference. Standard rooms will set you back about £250 per night, depending on the season.
World-class steak
If marble floors are the defining feature of the hotel’s decor, meat is the star of its culinary offering.
I am vegetarian but I can still appreciate the plates piled high with tomahawk steak and Kobe beef from the Josper grill. The biggest surprise are the hors d’oeuvres: bread, butter and two types of salts, one infused with Jack Daniels and one with lime. It might be my new death row meal.
Standouts from the drinks list are a sparkling wine from Istria, Misal Blanc de Noirs Brut, chosen by the sommelier, followed by another local jewel, Medea Montiron.
As the sun sets, I spot a pod of dolphins in the distance, not far from the Adriatic coast. Within seconds, the entire restaurant has jumped to their feet to photograph the rare sighting.
Things to do in Pula
Ancient traditions run deep on the Istrian coast, and few places have more to offer than Pula.
A must-do is the guided tour of the Roman amphitheatre, the only one with its remaining four side towers entirely preserved.
Constructed between 27 BC and AD 68, it is one of the six largest surviving Roman arenas in the world, and was designed to host gladiator games. Despite a history of bloodshed, the venue is now used for concerts; Dua Lipa, Avril Lavigne and Lenny Kravitz all performed there in 2024.
After working up an appetite, head to aROMA gelateria and try the local specialty Istriano, vanilla gelato with lemon and extra virgin olive oil made in Istria.
Islands of the Iron Curtain
Lining Pula’s charming promenade are boats that will ferry you to the nearby Brijuni Islands, one mile from mainland Croatia. Tito was fond of them, and made them his personal state residence in the summer.
From there, he hosted almost 100 international heads of state, as well as film stars like Elizabeth Taylor, Richard Burton, and Gina Lollobrigida.
Anyone fascinated by how communism shaped the Eastern Bloc after World War II should visit the museum, which houses an unsettling exhibit on the Yugoslav ruler’s life.
In this building, Tito met with Egyptian president Gamal Abdel Nasser, and India’s prime minister Jawaharlal Nehru, to discuss their opposition to the Cold War in 1956.
Aside from historic significance, the Brijuni Islands are a shining example of Croatia’s natural beauty. The main island, Veliki Brijun, is home to a safari park with zebras and an elephant gifted to Tito by Indira Gandhi, surrounded by oak trees.
Pula’s best restaurant?
Farabuto is a family-run restaurant offering traditional Croatian cuisine. Located on a quiet street a few minutes from the hotel, I’m told it’s a hidden gem only locals know about.
It receives high praise for its focus on local ingredients and extensive wine list. The menu changes often, putting seafood on pedestal, but there is plenty to choose from if you are vegetarian too.
Back in Pula, I join the evening crowds at Tito’s Park, near the Roman arena, where the annual wine festival is taking place, featuring Istrian, Croatian, and international brands. It’s an opportunity to try wine that is not often sold in London and also to mingle with locals.
Before I know it, it’s time to check out. I wave goodbye to the welcoming staff at Grand Hotel Brioni — and to my new love, Pula. I know I will be back soon.
Gergana Krasteva was a guest of Radisson Collection Hotel Group. Standard rooms at the Grand Hotel Brioni Pula are available from £250 per night.
This article was originally published on January 21, 2025.
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