Paddle at Broadsands beach
Exmoor’s 37-mile stretch of coastline is one of the most undeveloped in England, with steep cliffs (at 1,044ft Great Hangman is the highest sea cliff in England) overlooking quiet fishing villages and long sweeps of beach. Broadsands – not to be confused with the beach of the same name in south Devon – is a hidden gem, lying 239 steps down from the South West Coast Path, between Watermouth and Combe Martin. It’s also accessible by kayak from Combe Martin, but for those who do walk, the lovely outdoor terrace at the nearby Sawmills Freehouse is the perfect recovery spot after the climb back up.
sawmillsfreehouse.co.uk
Hike Dunkery Beacon
Rising 1,700ft above Exmoor’s wooded valleys and rolling hills, Dunkery Beacon is the highest point in the national park, and at its loveliest in spring when wild flowers carpet the valley woodland. A circular walking trail runs from the car park at the Webber’s Post lookout spot, with Bronze Age barrows dotted around the landscape and the chance of spotting red deer between the trees. The three-mile walk takes around an hour, with a stiff pull up on to the Beacon, worth it for the spectacular views. Afterwards, pop to Porlock for lunch or tea and cake at the Whortleberry Tearoom.
whortleberry.co.uk
Stay at Locanda, Porlock Weir
For an upmarket stay with a real sense of tranquillity, book into Locanda, tucked away in the sleepy seaside port of Porlock Weir, where the clutch of houses, galleries and cafés are set around a small, quaint harbour. The four bedrooms are furnished with carefully chosen brands, including House of Hackney fabrics and Aromatherapy Associates toiletries, while the restaurant, overseen by Pio, originally from Naples, offers a daily-changing set menu. This is a quietly sophisticated bolthole, run with real love, from the curated books, games and records, to the pot of Exmoor coffee, brewed fresh on arrival.
Doubles from £200 B&B, locandaontheweir.co.uk
Visit Dunster Castle
A 13th-century Norman castle converted into a lavish country house 600 years later, Dunster is one of Exmoor’s most dramatic sights, set on a wooded hill, surrounded by terraced gardens filled with Mediterranean and subtropical plants. The castle charts 1,000 years of history, with artworks, a library, atmospheric attic rooms and a grand, central staircase, while outside a working watermill and natural play area are surrounded by 700 acres of parkland. Dip into Gatehouse Books to browse hundreds of secondhand titles, or settle in for homemade soup, sandwiches and cakes at the Watermill Tearoom.
nationaltrust.org.uk
Tuck in at Withypool Tea Room
Food is a big part of a visit to Exmoor, with farms, bakeries, dairies and specialist producers scattered across the hilly heathland. A cream tea is a must, and the Withypool Tea Room – on the site of a former garage – is hard to beat, famed for its Withybig Scones, best taken at one of the outdoor tables, with the restored Shell petrol pumps gleaming in the background. Across the road, the Withypool Shop specialises in selling Exmoor foodie (and drink) treats, including locally produced tea, coffee, meats and preserves.
withypoolexmoor.co.uk
Go on safari
Exmoor is famous for its red deer, but the moors are also home to Exmoor ponies, badgers, stoats and weasles, and more than 275 species of birds, including kestrels, buzzards and grey herons. Red Stag Safaris offers wildlife safaris in the company of an Exmoor guide who knows where the animals are most likely to be found. The morning safaris begin at 9.30am, afternoons at 2pm, with a maximum of six people a day. The tour lasts around two and a half hours.
£75pp, book on 01643 841831, redstagsafari.co.uk
Walk across Tarr Steps
No holiday on Exmoor is complete without a visit to Tarr Steps, an ancient “clapper” bridge across the River Barle, which still divides historians as to whether it was originally constructed in the medieval period, or actually as long ago as 1,000 BC. The longest bridge of its kind in Britain, the steps are surrounded by oak woodland and meadows that offer delightful walks, while Winsford Hill is home to wild ponies and a collection of “wambarrows” – ancient burial mounds. Post-walk, settle in at the 16th-century Tarr Farm Inn, where new spring menus offer the best local produce.
tarrfarm.co.uk
Stay at the Rockford Inn, Lynton
For those on a budget, the Rockford Inn, hidden away in the remote Brendon valley, offers the chance to experience Exmoor at its wildest and most traditional. Built in the 17th century, the Rockford is an ideal base for walkers, with a lattice of footpaths running through the surrounding woodland and gorges, and along the banks of the East Lyn river, which flows directly past the pub. Dinners of Exmoor beef burgers or honey-glazed ham and eggs are perfect post-walk fuel, while the seven rooms are simply furnished but perfectly comfortable.
Doubles from £95 B&B, therockfordinn.co.uk
Get active at Wimbleball Lake
Ideal for families, the 530-acre site surrounding Wimblehall is packed with activities, from archery and fishing to walking and cycling trails, including the nine-mile Lakeside Round hike, around the full perimeter of Wimbleball. Cycle routes mostly follow bridleways and quiet country lanes, while the calm, flat water makes paddleboarding, kayaking and sailing easy for everyone from beginners to serious watersports fans.
swlakestrust.org.uk/wimbleball-lake
Discover Dulverton
One of Exmoor’s most picturesque market towns, Dulverton has more than 30 independent shops, offering everything from antiques to handmade jewellery at Browns of Dulverton and paintings by local and national artists at the Barle Gallery. Pick up goodies for a picnic at the Exmoor Deli, browse the vintage and retro finds at Mother’s Attic and dip into two floors of books at Rothwell & Dunworth, before discovering more about the town at the Heritage Centre. Afterwards, pop into Tantivy – part tea room, part shop, stocked with local books, maps, stationery and Exmoor produce.
visitdulverton.com
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